Oceania scales new peaks for Australia but can't medal

Oceania Mackenzie has scaled new Olympic heights for Australia, hauling herself into bruising contention for the country’s first medal in sport climbing before her soaring hopes finally fell to earth in Paris.

The 22-year-old Melburnian, who had never made a podium in any World Cup event, found herself in rarefied air when she actually clambered into the bronze medal position in the bouldering and lead combined final at halfway on Saturday.

But reality finally dawned at Le Bourget Climbing Centre in Mackenzie's weaker discipline, as she fell off the fiendish lead wall early, plummeting overall from third to seventh in the eight-woman final.

Oceania Mackenzie
Mackenzie delivered the best ever sport climbing performance by an Australian.

But the performance of Mackenzie, a German-born athlete with New Zealand parents, was hugely creditable, and a major improvement on her 19th position in the inaugural event in Tokyo 2021 when she failed to make the final.

It was brutally hard work too in challenging hot and windy conditions. "What's hurting? Mostly my forearms," she said.

"I had a lot of lactic acid build-up in them, I was a little bit out of breath too."

In this test of climbers’ technical ability, physical prowess and problem-solving nous, Mackenzie eventually ended with 104.8 points (59.7 for bouldering and 45.1 for lead) as the great Slovenian Janja Garnbret won her second Olympic crown on 168.5.

It didn't prove quite as comfortable as expected for the 25-year-old Garnbret, though, as she suffered what appeared to be a finger injury during the bouldering.

But, last to climb, it still didn't stop the woman known as climbing's 'GOAT' to surpass American silver medalist Brooke Raboutou's total of 156. Austria's Jessica Pilz took bronze on 147.4.

Janja Garnbret
Sport climbing's greatest Janja Garnbret celebrates another Olympic triumph.

Mackenzie had earlier surpassed herself in her four bouldering climbs, where athletes have to reach the summit of 4.5m walls without ropes inside a four-minute limit and in the fewest attempts possible.

She earned a perfect 25-point score with her first completed climb, and successfully reached her next final hold with just a couple of minor errors, before the difficulty ramped up and she struggled on her final two outings, even though she still ended up surpassed only by Garnbret and Raboutou.

"I really enjoyed the boulders today. They were quite challenging,” she said.

“Especially the lead route. I found it quite hard, but I definitely feel like I did my best.”

But things only got tougher for her in the lead event, where the climbers, this time with ropes, had to ascend a 15m-plus wall in six minutes without having seen the route beforehand.

Mackenzie began to look tired and uncomfortable, losing her grip halfway through her ascent and plummeting downwards.

License this article

What is AAPNews?

For the first time, Australian Associated Press is delivering news straight to the consumer.

No ads. No spin. News straight-up.

Not only do you get to enjoy high-quality news delivered straight to your desktop or device, you do so in the knowledge you are supporting media diversity in Australia.

AAP Is Australia’s only independent newswire service, free from political and commercial influence, producing fact-based public interest journalism across a range of topics including politics, courts, sport, finance and entertainment.

What is AAPNews?
The Morning Wire

Wake up to AAPNews’ morning news bulletin delivered straight to your inbox or mobile device, bringing you up to speed with all that has happened overnight at home and abroad, as well as setting you up what the day has in store.

AAPNews Morning Wire
AAPNews Breaking News
Breaking News

Be the first to know when major breaking news happens.


Notifications will be sent to your device whenever a big story breaks, ensuring you are never in the dark when the talking points happen.

Focused Content

Enjoy the best of AAP’s specialised Topics in Focus. AAP has reporters dedicated to bringing you hard news and feature content across a range of specialised topics including Environment, Agriculture, Future Economies, Arts and Refugee Issues.

AAPNews Focussed Content
Subscription Plans

Choose the plan that best fits your needs. AAPNews offers two basic subscriptions, all billed monthly.

Once you sign up, you will have seven days to test out the service before being billed.

AAPNews Full Access Plan
Full Access
AU$10
  • Enjoy all that AAPNews has to offer
  • Access to breaking news notifications and bulletins
  • Includes access to all AAPNews’ specialised topics
Join Now
AAPNews Student Access Plan
Student Access
AU$5
  • Gain access via a verified student email account
  • Enjoy all the benefits of the ‘Full Access’ plan at a reduced rate
  • Subscription renews each month
Join Now
AAPNews Annual Access Plan
Annual Access
AU$99
  • All the benefits of the 'Full Access' subscription at a discounted rate
  • Subscription automatically renews after 12 months
Join Now

AAPNews also offers enterprise deals for businesses so you can provide an AAPNews account for your team, organisation or customers. Click here to contact AAP to sign-up your business today.

SEVEN DAYS FREE
Download the app
Download AAPNews on the App StoreDownload AAPNews on the Google Play Store